Ford Restomod Front Suspension and Steering Guide. A Restomod has a few key modifications. Shop from the worlds largest selection and best deals for Car Truck Power Steering Pumps Parts. Shop with confidence on eBayDemonstrates How to Install a Power Steering Pump Pulley. Part 2 Hydraulic Steering. Introduction Hydraulic steering for recreational 4x4 vehicles is not a new concept, having been employed by some for many years. Inoperable Pump There is usually one cause for a new power steering pump to be inoperable damage during pulley installation. The pulley, although called presson. Perfect Power Steering Pumps for ShowPrepped Engines. Available for GM Saginaw or Type II applications, JEGS Power Steering Pumps provide reliability and great finishes. One of them is the pursuit of better handling, and that makes the front suspension an important focus. This chapter will cover some basics and performance aspects of front suspension alignment, as well as separate components and complete front suspension packages. Page 1. Parts List Part number Description 1 8PK1655 mm belt 1 L250150309 LSA LS9 10 bolt supercharger Pulley Hub Kit 1 L220300709 2. Getting your car pointed in the right direction is important too, so performance aspects of the steering system are also covered. Front suspension and steering work together to increase performance and drivability, which is why they are matched together in this chapter to help you get your car tuned for your style of driving. This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, HOW TO BUILD FORD RESTOMOD STREET MACHINES. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link SHARE THIS ARTICLE Please feel free to share this article on Facebook, in Forums, or with any Clubs you participate in. You can copy and paste this link to share https www. Alignment. There are three main settings of front suspension that affect the performance and drivability of your car camber, caster, and toe. If your front suspension bushings and steering components are loose, worn, or broken, you should have them replaced before considering an alignment. An alignment performed on a car with worn out tie rod ends or deteriorated control arm bushings is a waste of time and money. The settings will most likely change before the car gets out of the shop. Worn suspension and steering components are also a safety issue, so take care of these things as a matter of course. A worn steering gear wont affect the alignment between the two front tires, but it will keep the driver from enjoying the benefits of the alignment. The worn gear will cause steering to be sloppy, less responsive, and even dangerous in some cases. This front suspension is a mix of off the shelf stock car racing parts and custom fabricated and machined parts. Suspension analysis software and experience were combined to pull off this feat. Even the frame is completely fabricated. Photo Courtesy John Parsons, Photography by John UlaszekCaster On a car with upper and lower control arms as opposed to some strut suspensions that have only a lower control arm, the spindle pivots on the axis determined by the upper and lower ball joints. Caster is the forward or rearward tilt of the spindle on this axis as viewed from the side of the car. On most cars with this type of suspension, caster is changed by adjusting the strut rod or moving the upper control arm on its pivots using shims. A strut front suspension without an upper control arm uses an adjustable upper strut mount known as a camber plate to adjust camber and caster. When viewed from the side, if the upper ball joint is behind toward the back of the car the lower ball joint, the car has positive caster. Negative caster is when the upper ball joint is ahead of the lower. Caster has a tendency to cause the tires to move vertically a small amount as they are steered right or left from the centered position. This vertical movement acts to push the weight of the car off the ground, while gravity tries to pull it back down. The force of gravity, which is trying to pull the car down, pushes up on the tire. This upward force on the tire causes the spindle to rotate about its axis to the point that the forces on both the right and left spindles find equilibrium. This equilibrium is found when both tires are pointing straight ahead, assuming, of course, that the caster is the same on both sides of the car and there is nothing bent or out of alignment on either side. Both negative and positive caster can induce this self centering action of the wheels and give the car more stability at higher speeds. Rubber suspension bushings deflect and distort under hard driving conditions. This distortion helps isolate road shock under normal driving conditions. This movement also allows the suspension geometry to change, hampering handling characteristics. Notice how the spindle is tilted and the tire is barely contacting the ground. Urethane or solid suspension bushings transfer road feel to the chassis. Solid suspension bushings also help the suspension keep its intended geometry. Notice how the tire is contacting the ground more evenly for better cornering traction. The top of the illustration shows the front spindle in extreme positive caster position. The bottom of the illustration shows the front spindle in extreme negative caster. Positive caster is preferred over negative caster. The self centering effect does not come from caster alone. It can also come from steering axis inclination. This is the same basic principle as caster, but in the front view of the suspension. If the axis of the upper and lower ball joints leans inward at the top, as a lot of cars do, there will again be a force trying to push up on the car. Some cars get this selfcentering effect using only steering axis inclination and zero caster. Camber Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of the tire as viewed from the front of the car. Negative camber is when the top of the tire tilts inward, and positive camber is when the top of the tire tilts outward. Positive camber is not desirable for handling, because it makes the outer edge of the tire dig into the pavement. If only the outside edge of the tire is on the ground, it does not produce as much cornering traction as having the entire width of the tire on the ground. With negative camber, when the top of the tire is tilting inward, the entire width of the tire has a better chance to evenly plant on the road surface for optimum traction. As with anything in life, negative camber is only good in moderation. Too much negative camber will have the inside edge of the tire trying to keep your car from sliding with unwanted understeer. Camber can be set on your car with an alignment. Camber curve is something completely separate from the camber adjustment you get with an alignment except in the case of a racebred suspension with adjustable controlarm pivot points. The camber curve is affected by the length of the control arms and the control arm pivot points. A positive camber curve actually increases the outward tilt of the top of the tire during suspension articulation, which is completely undesirable and intensifies understeer. A negative camber curve tilts the top of the tire inward during suspension articulation, which is much more desirable for improved handling around corners. I mention articulation because when your car is steered into the corner, the body leans. When the body leans, the outer front tire articulates upward in the fender opening. An extremely aggressive negative cambercurve can be bad, too. The key to a car that handles well is to keep the largest amount of the tire tread on the road surface, if possible. Negative camber settings help compensate for tire distortion under high lateral loads. This photo shows a front tire exhibiting positive camber the top of the tire is pushing out. If you took a hard corner in this car, it would have understeer. Only the outside edge of the tire is biting the ground. This front tire is exhibiting slight negative camber. The top of the tire is tilted slightly inward. This car corners well. The entire width of the tire tread is able to get traction on the ground. Its possible a little more camber would increase cornering performance. GM Performance View topic. Quick answer. will try to post pics later when I get a chance. Was planning to do a write up on this but have not gotten to it yet. This is exactly what I will be doing probably next month when I get my moms Tahoe back down to my house to do some more work on it. The EVO delete completely solved the twitch as expected, but I like you would prefer less boost, as the steering although tight still feels wandery on the highway, which is especially unnerving in a large vehicle like a 4wd Tahoe. These Saginaw pumps have been around forever, and there is a way to easily adjust the boost they provide. Did A LOT of research online into this, and it has to do with the flow control valve inside the pump. This is NOT to be confused with the flow control FITTING which is what threads into the back of the pump in place of the EVO solenoid assembly when retrofitting back to the pre 9. Behind that fitting is a spring, and behind that spring is the flow control valve. This valve has a hex nut on the end which is epoxed into place on later style units my 9. Way back in the day, they were not epoxied into place. The amount this hex nut is tightend down onto the fitting controls the pumps output and thus the amount of steering assist. GM sets the clearance on these at. They set the hex nut and the epoxy holds it in place. It used to be that they used shims under the fitting to set this clearance, but in modern times they just tighten down the nut to the set clearance and let the epoxy hold it there. This hex nut applies a pre load to a spring loaded check valve assembly inside the flow control valve, so how tight or loose this hex nut is will determine that preload pressure. Without a power steering pressure gauge, it is somewhat a matter of guesswork to determine what the clearance needs to be reset to in order to provide the desired boost level. If you want MORE boost, then tighten down the hex nut less clearance, but since we are wanting LESS boost, we need to be shimming the hex nut out. One could conceivably remove the hex nut difficult because of the epoxy but do able without damaging the spools on the valve, put some threadlock on it, and tighten back down to the desired clearance using a flat feeler gauge go, no go to check the clearance, somewhat like checking spark plug gap. Based off some readings I found in a magazine article online, with the stock. Moving up to. 0. The difference in the shim. I concluded that a ballpark figure would be about 1. Again, these pressure readings are theoretical, as I have not read actual pressures off of one of these trucks with a gauge myself, but Im using the above info as a baseline for my own experiments. Enable Usb In Windows Ntfs. I was planning to use shims instead of the threadlockepoxy method to set the valve, so I located a hot rod shop out in California which sells kits to re shim these Saginaw boxes and even comes with a special jig you put the flow control valve into which helps keep you from damaging it while disassembling it. The kit was arund 2. I was planning to take the valve apart and put in enough shims to bring the clearance out to. I have not done this yet though, so I was going to test all this out before posting here so that I could speak more authoritatively about the procedure. Last edited by JR9. CK on Mon Oct 2. 4, 2.